Nikkormat: Unrestrained (Scanned as Negative) on Flickr.
Nikkormat FTN, Nikon 28mm f/2 AI, Fujichrome Velvia 100, cross processed, scanned as negetives (which means they don’t need to be inverted). For consistency, I auto-corrected color and contrast and used the “lighter” setting in curves on each image layer using Photoshop.
I’m experimenting with cross process, or rather, how to scan cross processed film. I used to have the lab do my scans but it was getting too expensive. I purchased an Epson v500 second hand (the best photo purchase I’ve made in years). My first roll of cross process I scanned as positive and wondered the reds and pinks that denote typical “cross process” were missing. It wasn’t until my next film that I scanned as negative…and viola, the cross process look. That really started me thinking about what I knew about cross process and how to best approach each film (actually, each frame).
It’s difficult to figure out how to scan to get the best final result. Scanning is a time consuming process so I really don’t want to scan everything twice just to figure it out. Hence, my tedious experiment (and its description here). I’m hope to find common markers or elements that clue me into how to best scan. So far, no luck.
In the case of this triptych — all images that were well exposed in full sun — the negative scans were dark but the positive scans turned out well. I’ve had similar images where the negative scans were perfect but positive scans were dark.
Arghhhh. I wonder if the length of the exposure affects anything. Do the longer exposures of pinhole do something to the film chemistry? If you have answers, please, please, clue me in :)